The Forest of Brocéliande: Where Legends are Born

There are people whose souls are fed through art and music or lying on the beach listening to waves crashing against the shore. I certainly love and appreciate those things too. When my soul needs nourishment, however, I head to the forest. I am immediately taken to a new level of peace and tranquility when I am surrounded by trees. The smell of the damp earth and the trickling of a nearby creek fill me with immense joy.

A few years ago, I visited the Foret de Huelgoat in Brittany’s Finistere department, and it remains one of my most favorite places in the region. This summer, I was thrilled to visit the Paimpont Forest or, as most say, Forêt de Brocéliande. I went with three other women, one of whom I’ve been lucky to know for a few years, and two others who I had just met that week. Together, we spent a lovely day in this enchanted forest searching for fairies and the fountain of youth, asking for guidance from none other than Merlin himself, and scouting for a golden tree.

About the Forest of Brocéliande

About 18 miles (30km) west of Rennes, the forest of Paimpont is all that remains of the vast forest that covered ancient inland Brittany aka Argoat. Legend has it that the 25 square miles (40km2) of woodland is also the location of mythical Brocéliande, the forest of King Arthur

From https://www.brittanytourism.com/destinations/the-10-destinations/destination-broceliande/the-forest-of-broceliande/

We arrived around 11AM and parked in one of the free parking lots a few minutes’ walk from the tourism office. From the lot, we entered the main street that houses a variety of shops, selling various books, clothing and other treasures highlighting the unique forest and the plethora of myths surrounding it.

We even spotted what could be a Hogwart’s satellite school. (It is still my dream to teach alongside Hagrid and Manerva, so this could be a close option.)

We happened to have picked the most beautiful day to visit the village of Paimpont. The sky was the most incredible shade of blue and the sun’s rays shone on the granite buildings casting an ethereal light. It was, quite simply, stunning.

After spending some time in the tourism office – in which helpful staff were on hand to distribute information and answer questions – we visited Paimpont Abbey just next door. The interior is a beautiful and eclectic mix of gothic and baroque styles, with intricate wooden carvings and vibrant stained windows. The Rose window and western doorway date from the 13th century while much of the interior collection of statues date from the 15th century.

Before going deep into the forest, we decided to purchase some galette saucisse and cider to go, and ate next to this peaceful lake.

My friends had been to this forest before and knew where to find some of the most magnificent trees I’ve ever seen. When we first came upon this particular one, I was speechless. There were a few people sitting on the ground, marveling at its beauty, taking in all of the calming energy that can only be found in a forest.

A short while later, we came upon this tree said to be approximately 500 years old. We quietly discussed all of the things that have passed since the tree has been alive. From revolutions to plagues to new life, this tree has witnessed it all. It’s incredible to think of the sheer number of people who have walked through this forest during that time. That alone was worth a few moments’ pause.

We walked for some time before breaking for lunch. I was so thankful to be spending the day in such delightful company. It gave me even more inspiration for continuing on with my studies in French as it is truly a blessing to be able to understand at least some of their words of wisdom.

There was still much to see and a few hours left in our day. We wanted to visit a special site within the magnificent forest, the Arbre d’Or, or golden tree. After a short drive, we parked the car and walked along a narrow path.

We then came upon this sublime mirror-like lake , le petit étang du Miroir aux fées, so named for the seven fairies who are said to go and admire their reflection in the water.

Just beyond this stunning lake lies a tree encased in gold. Upon closer inspection, one see that the trees surrounding the Arbre d’Or have been charred. This occurred in a ravaging fire in 1990. François Davin, an artist, wanted to ensure that this was not forgotten and thanks to him, it won’t be. It is hard to imagine this area being destroyed as it is truly magnificent.

We passed very few people during our trek in the forest. The scene was very serene, with only the sounds of birds and the trickling of water passing by in a nearby stream. Light danced across the earth as the wind passed through the leaves. It was easy to see why so many stories of woodland nymphs, fairies, and wizards have sprung from this area.

Some come to this forest for its sheer beauty. Many others come because they love history and mythology. Here, one can take advantage of both. Such was the case when we came upon ancient stones that have become known as Merlin’s tomb …

When we came near the dolmens, we saw several people in quiet reflection near the ancient stones. It is custom for people to write their wishes for the coming year on small pieces of paper and place them in the cracks, hoping that Merlin and the Powers that Be make their dreams come true.

Informational displays are available in French and English to give more context to each of the major “attractions”.

Just when I thought we could not possibly find another treasure, we did. We literally came upon the Fountain of Youth. It may go without saying that we all dipped our hand inside, hoping that we keep our youth (or rather not age past mid-50’s). I will update you in the next few years to see how I’ve made out.

We had one more hike to make and it was well worth the somewhat challenging climb. For it was from here that we could see all of the valley and hear a storyteller recount the history of the tomb of the druids. According to Brittany Tourism:

Southwest of here near Tréhorenteuc is the ominously named Val Sans Retour (valley of no return). It is here that the sorceress Morgan le Fay, half-sister of King Arthur, is said to have imprisoned unfaithful youths. High above the valley, the Rocher des Faux Amants (rock of false lovers) is the spot where she enticed her prisoners. As well as several megalithic sites, visitors should note the golden tree at the entrance to the valley; it was erected in 1991 to commemorate the great fire that ravaged the forest in 1990.

Read more here: https://www.brittanytourism.com/destinations/the-10-destinations/destination-broceliande/the-forest-of-broceliande/

Another account of the story comes from FemmeActuelle.fr:

The Hôtié of Viviane, which also bears the name of tomb of the Druids, rises on the heights of the Valley of no return. Condemned by a spell to never leave these places, Viviane came here to enjoy the landscape, taking advantage of the magnificent and monumental megalith in the shape of a chest dated 2,500 years B.C. for her comfort. Be careful where you put your feet when crossing the rocky ridge, which would be in reality the back of a sleeping dragon.

Taken from https://www.femmeactuelle.fr/vie-pratique/voyage/litineraire-ideal-pour-decouvrir-la-foret-de-broceliande-2069150 and Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator to ensure accuracy.

Good to know:

• There is free parking about a 5-minute walk to the tourism office

• The streets nearest to the tourism office has a variety of shops that carry books, postcards, jewelry, and more

• The tourism office has staff available to answer questions and provides maps and brochures

• One needs to be mindful when walking on the paths as it is a natural area (i.e. no paved paths)

• The Pass Sanitaire was required for entry into the tourism office and surrounding restaurants

• Inside the Paimpont Abbey, there are brochures on hand in multiple languages describing the Abbey’s construction and history.

• Trails are clearly marked by signs and there are plenty of maps at the tourism office. A downloadable map can be found here: https://tourisme-broceliande.bzh/en/la-foret/carte-de-foret/

I hope you enjoyed our trip to this enchanted forest as much as I did. Would you like to come to Broceliande ? Would you leave a wish under Merlin’s tomb?

Stay safe and well,

Amy Gruber, from Tales from Brittany