Saint Malo and les Rochers Sculptés de Rothéneuf

When I want to spend a day immersing myself in French history and culture and maybe run into a pirate or two, I head to St Malo. The views from the ramparts (some dating back to the 12th century) are worth the trip alone. For sun worshipers, its sandy beaches are simply stunning. If all that weren’t enough, there is a wide variety of restaurants offering scrumptious dishes and a plethora of shops perfect for browsing or buying.

St Malo is une ville made for strolling, and I appreciate its interesting and varied architecture. Sadly, the majority of the city – 80% to be exact – was devastated by bombings during World War II. It was rebuilt as close to its original construction as possible.

According to ArchDaily,

Over the 12-year span from 1948-1960, the city was rebuilt brick by brick by the determined Malouins. However, instead of attempting to modernize the style of architecture in Saint-Malo, it was restored to its original glory, maintaining its medieval character.

While much of the architecture is fairly new by French standards, there is something timelessly elegant about the way it was reconstructed. It is, in my opinion, an interesting an eclectic mix of old and new. Learn more about the city’s history and architecture here: https://www.archdaily.com/888649/this-medieval-walled-town-with-a-storied-history-shows-how-traditional-urbanism-can-support-high-density.

What to do in St Malo:

St Malo truly is one of my favorite places to visit as there is something for everyone there. A darling carousel awaits the young (or the young at heart) just outside the walled city …

Pristine beaches and emerald waters await visitors who come to relax for a few hours. What an ideal spot to rest between dips in the harbor.

Meandering about the streets, I take in the sights, sounds, and smells unique to this area. The stroll about helps build an appetite for sampling the local cuisine including savory crêpes, oysters, or scallops. Or perhaps I shall have mussels served with frites and paired with local ciders and wines. If your palette is open to such delights, I highly recommend trying the local fare as it does not disappoint.

I stop in a number of shops to purchase unique and locally sourced souvenirs for friends and family. I always remember to say “Bonjour” upon entering as is the custom. I make light conversation in French with the shop keeper who is kind enough not to mention my rather strong American accent. I hear time and time again how the effort to speak even a few sentences in French is much appreciated.

I have found that these items are perfect to have on hand for an evening apero so I purchase a few more to stock my cupboard.

St Malo is interesting for WWII history buffs as well. During World War II, Germans used the Fort de la Cité d’Alet as a base. While I myself have not visited yet, I plan to in the future. I understand the memorial to be quite moving. Another site on my list is the Fort National, a prison built in 1689. As it was intended to be a challenge to get in or out of, the remains of this prison are not accessible except for low tide.

For those who love learning about the forces of nature, planning a stay around the grandes marees (great tides) is something to consider. I have seen numerous photos and videos of the spectacular waves crashing against the high walls that protecting buildings behind and it is certainly a sight to behold.

From http://www.grandes-marees.com/le-phenomene and translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version) please find additional information below:

THE TIDE

The tide, the daily movement of the sea, is a universal phenomenon. Our ancestors believed for a long time that this event was governed by the gods or by obscure forces. Newton’s law of universal attraction and the work of scientists such as Laplace and Poincaré proved from the 17th century onwards that it was indeed a matter of force: that of the Moon and the Sun on the Earth.

THE FORCE OF ATTRACTION OF THE MOON

The Moon acts like a magnet on the oceans. Its force of attraction on the Earth is twice as high as that of the Sun, due to its proximity. Their actions combine in different ways depending on their positions:

The great tides, also known as spring tides, occur at the time of the full and new moon, when the Moon and the Sun are in alignment with the Earth. They are thus strongly attracted to each other.
When the Moon and the Sun form a right angle with the Earth (during the first and last quarter), they are neap* tides.

Note: for those of you (like me) had never heard of “neap tides”, here is an explanation:

A neap tide—seven days after a spring tide—refers to a period of moderate tides when the sun and moon are at right angles to each other. … In both cases, the gravitational pull of the sun is “added” to the gravitational pull of the moon on Earth, causing the oceans to bulge a bit more than usual. Science lesson courtesy of https://oceanservice.noaa.gov/facts/springtide.html

Recommended Reading:

After visiting St Malo, I recommend reading this wonderful piece of historical fiction by Anthony Doerr. The book is called All the Light We Cannot See, with a brief synopsis below by The Pulitzer Press.

Marie-Laure lives with her father in Paris near the Museum of Natural History, where he works as the master of its thousands of locks. When she is six, Marie-Laure goes blind and her father builds a perfect miniature of their neighborhood so she can memorize it by touch and navigate her way home. When she is twelve, the Nazis occupy Paris and father and daughter flee to the walled citadel of Saint-Malo, where Marie-Laure’s reclusive great-uncle lives in a tall house by the sea. With them they carry what might be the museum’s most valuable and dangerous jewel.

Additional information can be found here https://www.pulitzer.org/winners/anthony-doerr

Good to Know:

St Malo is easily accessible by car, train, bus, and even boat, making it a convenient place to visit for the afternoon. The train station is about a 20-minute walk from the intra muros (walled city). If traveling by car, park just outside the city walls for a modest fee. Once inside the intra muros, spend a good hour walking about the city then along the ramparts.

Information about the Intra Muros (walled city):https://www.brittany-ferries.co.uk/guides/france/brittany/st-malo/intra-muros

At low tide, one can also visit the islands of Grand Bé and Petit Bé. Additional information here: https://www.saint-malo-tourisme.co.uk/explore/the-natural-environment/the-emerald-coast-and-its-islands

Family Activities in St Malo: Les Rochers Sculptés de Rothéneuf

Just a few kilometers away from St Malo lies a rather magical spot, filled with mythical creatures, superbes visages, and much more, all set against the magnificent cliffs and sea below. The sculptures were carved into granite over the course of 25 years, from 1894 to 1907, by a priest at a neighboring abbey. After suffering a paralyzing stroke, he spent the remainder of his life creating these stunning images that continue to capture the hearts of all who visit.

Read more details here: https://eddhostel.com/mid-day-trip/carved-rocks-rotheneuf-saint-malo/

I would venture to say that these carvings rival any found in a museum and the backdrop makes them even more majestic. It’s incredible to think of this man, coming to this particular spot every day for decades, tools in hand, tirelessly sanding down the hard stone into smooth features.

It seemed that every twist and turn revealed a new treasure. It was incredible, to think of the amount of time and dedication, the sheer manpower and patience that it must have taken to turn the hard granite into hundreds of lifelike creatures.

Good to Know:

My friend Isabelle and I went with her grandson who is 4 years old. We all enjoyed the experienced equally. Note: If you choose to visit, it’s a must to wear shoes made for walking and with good traction. There is no real foot path as the sculptures encompass almost the entire 550 sq meter area.

Additional Reading:

Les Rochers Sculptés

Additional things to see and do in St Malo:

Aquarium https://www.aquarium-st-malo.com

Where to Eat:

There are numerous high quality restaurants found within the walled city. The restaurant below is located several km away, but worth the drive if you have additional time.

La Perle Nore 35350 Saint Coulomb

https://www.resto-perlenoire.fr

Menu https://www.resto-perlenoire.fr/notre-carte.php

We chose the special of the day, a mixture of fresh fish and seasonal vegetables.

Our meal was followed by a light dessert ….

What do you think about this day spent in and around St Malo? Would your day include a visit to the sculpted rocks also? Please let me know in the comments.

Stay safe and well,

Amy, from Tales from Brittany