Must-see Castles in Brittany

Let’s take a trip back in time, shall we? Imagine for a moment a scene of lords dressed in long tunics and leggings and ladies in their fine gowns. They are seated around a grand fireplace, wine or ale in hand, the smell of grilled smoked pork, nutmeg, and cardamom lingering in the air. Musicians and captivating storytellers entertain their guests. Ah yes, what it must have been like to live in medieval times! (Well, for lords and ladies anyway.) If castles, medieval history and lore appeal to you, read on.

Brittany is home to over a dozen castles, all with a different personality. Today, I will walk you through some of my favorite chateaux in la Bretagne. Before reading further, enjoy this short video for medieval history buffs who want to explore this region https://youtu.be/gbq5K6i9c6s

The city of Rennes is a good home base, especially if coming in from Paris. There is much to see and do in this city alone, and it is located within a relatively short distance from just about anything in the region. After renting a car at the train station (a previous post on driving in France is linked at the close of this article) drive directly to Vitré. Vitré lies in the Ille-et-Vilaine department of central Brittany and is only about 25 km northeast from Rennes.

*** _Vitré ***

Vitré, home to about 18,000 inhabitants, is simply charming. I was immediately enchanted with its fascinating architecture, narrow cobbled streets, and of course its magnificent chateau. The castle, sitting high above the River Vilaine, dates back to the 11th century, with expansions made in the 14th and 15th centuries. When the plague hit Rennes back in the 1600’s, the Parlement de Bretagne took refuge inside the castle.

The city hall and museum lie just within the castle walls, beautifully furnished and with impressive paintings. While there are not many rooms open to the public to explore, the views of the town below are well worth the visit. The castle is currently closed due to Covid-19, but is usually open Mondays from 10-12:30 and 2:00 – 5:30, Wednesday through Friday from 10-12:30 and 2-5:30, and Saturday and Sunday from 2-5:30. Closed Tuesdays.

After visiting the castle, if time allows, spend a good few hours wandering about the town. Two of the most interesting streets in Vitré are Rue de la Baudriere and Rue de la Poterie. Here, you will find remarkable half-timbered houses owned by merchants who made their wealth in the cloth trade during the 14^th century. If you look closely, you can see the intricate carvings in the the wooden frames, and the ledges that merchants used as counters when selling their goods. You can also see the elaborate and exposed staircase on the right (of this photo). How lovely – and exceptionally well-maintained – these homes are, especially given their age.

Vitré offers a fine selection of restaurants and little shops for browsing. When we visited Vitré, we ate at Creperie Mrs. Teapot, and I recommend it highly. The owner and staff were kind and attentive and the food was fresh and delicious. While I like to try different restaurants when I revisit towns, it was such a nice experience that I will likely eat at this delightful place again.

*** _Fougères ***

About 29 km from Vitré, and 51 km from Rennes, lies the commune of Fougères. It is home to the exquisite Château de Fougères, the largest medieval fortified castle in Europe. Tens of thousands of visitors come to the château every year, and it is easy to see why. There are regular guided tours as well as informational displays throughout, making for an educational and entertaining day for people of all ages.

Upon arrival, one is immediately struck by the castle’s beauty, with its impressive entrance and sprawling ramparts, the tall turrets and winding moat. Originally built in the 11th century, most of what we see today is thanks to reconstruction efforts in the 15th century.

The château was first built of wood in the 11^th century, but burned down in 1166. This was not accidental, but rather by the hands of King Henry II and his men. It was rebuilt immediately after – of stone this time –  but taken again, this time by King Phillip of France. La Bretagne had not yet become part of France; Brittany became part of France in 1532, when King Francois of France married the Claude de Bretagne, Duchess of Brittany. Though it has seen its fair share of battles and sieges, the château still stands as tall and majestic as it did hundreds of years ago.

The site of the fortress was chosen both for its strategic location on trade routes and for its its superb views of the valley and rivers below, securing it as a place of great importance during the middle ages.

A steep staircase in one of the towers leads to a magnificent view of the castle walls and town beyond. If you can make the trek, it’s well worth the climb. There are audio guides available at the entrance, but we made do with the numerous visual displays throughout.

A long, leisurely walk about the gardens gives you an idea of the simple pleasures found outside the cold, stone walls. The imposing fortress is offset by delicate flowers growing alongside the banks of the moat. Around another corner one hears the gentle lapping of water by this trio of old watermills …

*** Josselin ***

If ever there was a fairy tale château, this would be it. The original château, built in the 11th century, was destroyed by King Henry II during a time in which England wanted Brittany for her own. Construction on the castle that we see today began in 1173 and, thanks to restorative efforts in the mid 1800’s, it is truly a sight to behold. Its unique architecture and proximity to the river makes it one of the most beautiful castles in Brittany.

While one can’t visit the entire castle (as it continues to be inhabited by the Rohan family), guided tours of the ground floor are possible from April through October. It is something to tour this enchanting castle, but can you imagine living there? Incredible.

I say come to Josselin and marvel at its magical castle, but be sure to spend a few hours in this charming medieval town …

Josselin, located in the Morbihan department of Brittany, is designated as both a Petite cité de caractère’ and ville fleurie (floral town). Josselin hosts a variety of shops, restaurants, and cafes and will delight both young and old alike.

Rising up from the middle of the town is the Basilique Notre Dame du Roncier. Built in the 15th century, its fascinating exterior begs for closer inspection.

It’s interior does not disappoint …

*** Combourg ***

Combourg lies between Rennes and St. Malo, about 37km from Rennes city center. This stunning chateau was originally constructed in the 11th century with some major renovations in the centuries following. It has fluctuated between a fortress and a military hospital, and many other things in between. It continues to house the original family of Jean-Baptiste de Chateaubriand, a name well-known throughout this region. This lovely setting was an ideal location for François René de Châteaubriand, a beloved French Romantic writer. His muse? Nature. The trees and idyllic setting inspired most of his work. The Châteaubriand family purchased this stunner in the mid 1700’s and it remains in the family today.

We did not spend a lot of time in Combourg as we had arrived on a Sunday when most everything was closed. Unfortunately, we were also there a few days before the chateau opened to the public. This is why we must always research our destinations. 😉

I thought this town had a lot of character and I look forward to visiting again soon. Stay tuned for a post on Combourg in the coming months.

*** Dinan ***

Dinan is located in the Cotes d’armor department of Brittany. The walls surrounding the historic center date back to the 11^th century, and they have survived attacks from the English in the 14th and 15th centuries and bombings during World War II, making Dinan one of the best-preserved towns in the region. Known for its half-timbered houses, lively port, warm people, and delicious food, it is a must-see for travelers.

The castle is simply lovely and suitable for all ages. I appreciate the number of educational displays throughout. I myself learned a great deal from the hour or so I spent inside.

Looking at the photo below, can you smell the herbs and spices spilling out from that fire? And that magnificent pottery, the staircase …. it is easy to be transported in time when visiting this particular chateau.

I would be remiss if I didn’t plug the town a little, so here I go …

First, spend a good part of an hour walking along the ramparts – about 3 km in all – and take in the amazing views of the town and of the river Rance below.

One of the most delightful – and certainly most photographed – streets in Dinan is the Rue du Jerzual. The windy street turns into Rue du Petit Fort midway down to the port. Here, you will see some of the most beautiful old merchant houses, many now turned into art galleries.

The street is breathtaking, but does come with a somewhat challenging trek. If the the climb doesn’t interest you, you can take advantage of the free bus (Dinamo) that runs from town center to the port and surrounding areas. There is also a little people mover “train” that runs from the port through the town and takes about 40 minutes. I just read that Dinan will have additional means of transport from the the historic center to the port, so I will update you on that once I get back.

The Place des Merciers is beloved for its architecture and is full of quaint shops selling regionally made products ranging from sea salt and rillette to pottery and traditional clothing.

The Basilique St. Sauveur is an extraordinary structure, a mélange of Gothic and Romanesque architecture. The Jardin Anglais, located behind the basilica, offers a variety of plants and trees and a view of the Port de Dinan from the ramparts.

While Dinan has only about 11,000 inhabitants, over half a million people visit this charming town every year. I’ve been in Dinan during each of the four seasons and can say that the majority of tourists come between May and August, July and August being the peak times, with Christmas time close behind. If possible, schedule a trip during the months of April, May, June, or September.

Travel information and tips:

Blog posts about Rennes: https://talesfrombrittany.com/an-afternoon-in-rennes/

Blog post on driving in France: https://talesfrombrittany.com/going-further-afield-driving-in-france/

Vitre

Vitre general information https://www.brittanytourism.com/destinations/the-10-destinations/rennes-and-brittanys-historic-gateways/vitre/

Top things to see and do https://www.lonelyplanet.com/france/vitre/top-things-to-do/a/poi/1304139

Vitre castle https://chateau.vitre.bzh/

Restaurants in Vitre https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurants-g660464-zfp58-Vitre_Ille_et_Vilaine_Brittany.html

Creperie Mrs. Teapot (mentioned above) https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g660464-d2530904-Reviews-Creperie_Mrs_Teapot-Vitre_Ille_et_Vilaine_Brittany.html

General information about Fougeres

Places to stay:

Le Mercier de Montigny: Exquisitely decorated rooms in an 18th century hotel. https://laetitiabl.wixsite.com/lemercierdemontigny

Places to eat:

Restaurant Au Cellier http://www.aucellierdefougeres.fr/

Other things to do in Fougeres:

Jardin Bretagne, 25 acre botanical garden https://www.jardinbretagne.com/

Market day in Fougeres is Saturday

General information about Josselin

In French: https://www.broceliande-vacances.com/recherche/?query=josselin

In English: https://www.brittanytourism.com/destinations/the-10-destinations/destination-broceliande/josselin/ adds the following as “Unmissable Places” in josselin.

• The old town
• The château of the Dukes of Rohan
• The Basilica of Notre-Dame-du-Roncier
• The chapel of the former Sainte-Croix priory (11th and 13th centuries)
• The 1538 house with caryatids and beams carved with hunting scenes
• The locks, lock house, mill and weir

General information about the Château https://www.chateaudejosselin.com/en/homepage/

Video of the Château  https://youtu.be/P2GRb6cjFSs

CHÂTEAU DE JOSSELIN Place de la congrégation 56120 JOSSELIN

02 97 22 36 45 contact@chateaudejosselin.com

Castle gardens https://www.chateaudejosselin.com/en/garden/

Walking maps http://www.brittany-cottage.me.uk/local-walks–cycles.html

If you want to stay in Josselin, here is a dreamy cottage to rent: http://www.brittany-cottage.me.uk/cottage-overview.html

Getting there

Josselin is about a one-hour drive from Rennes. If coming by train from Paris, one can rent a car at the train station (see my post here https://talesfrombrittany.com/going-further-afield-driving-in-france/ for more information). One can also take the bus that runs between Rennes and Josselin about every four hours.

Restaurants

There are many wonderful restaurants in Josselin, but here are a few that have received top reviews:

La Table d’O . Cozy and casual with a varied menu. https://latabledo.eatbu.com/?lang=en

Combourg

General information: https://www.chateau-combourg.com/

Other things to see and do, according to this site: https://www.brittanytourism.com/destinations/the-10-destinations/cap-frehel-saint-malo-mont-saint-michel-bay/combourg/

Main points of interest

• The Maison de la Lanterne, a remarkable granite town mansion (16th century)
• The castle (12th century to 15th century)
• Les Templiers, a half-timbered house built around a courtyard
• Le Relais des Princes, a 16th century timber-framed house
• The Tour du Pendu (‘tower of the hanged man’)
• The present neo-Gothic church
• The statue of François-René de Chateaubriand

Where to stay in Fougeres, Vitre, and Combourg

Hotels in the Ille-et-Vilaine department https://www.booking.com/searchresults.html?aid=324893&label=ftw-places-link&si=ci%2Cco%2Cci%2Cre&ifl=0&ss=Ille-et-Vilaine,%20France

General information about Dinan

Dinan tourism office: https://www.dinan-capfrehel.com/en/ This site has anything and everything you would ever want to know about Dinan.

Another wonderful source of information: https://www.brittanytourism.com/destinations/the-10-destinations/cap-frehel-saint-malo-mont-saint-michel-bay/dinan/

Places to stay in and around Dinan:

Quai du Val (my subscribers can use a special code when making a reservation) This is an absolutely ideal place to rest your head during your visit. Located in a tranquil location in Lehon, just minutes from the port de Dinan. https://www.quaiduval.com/

Hotel Arvor https://www.hotelarvordinan.com/fr/

Gites in Dinan https://www.gitesindinan.com/ apartments on the beautiful Rue du Petit Fort

La Maison Pavie https://www.lamaisonpavie.com/, The home that houses this bed and breakfast was built in the 15^th century and overlooks the Place St. Sauveur. While I have not stayed there myself, I have heard wonderful things about this special place to rest your head.

Auberge de jeunesse. Tucked away in a wooded area with a winding road. Perfect for those wanting tranquility. https://www.hifrance.org/auberge-de-jeunesse/dinan/produits/nuitee.html

Appartement au Port.. My father stayed in this apartment during his visit to Dinan in 2019. Located at the port de Dinan, it is bright and cheery with a great view of the Rance. https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/7127367?source_impression_id=p3_1617972892_t0zZ8hEFkHhW7i5o&guests=1&adults=1

Restaurants

D’icidela 14 Rue des Rouairies, 22100 Dinan, France https://d-ici-de-la.bzh/

Bords de Rance 18 Quai du Tallard, 22100 Lanvallay, France

La Lumachelle 80 Rue du Petit Fort, 22100 Dinan, France

Creperie Art Bilig 8 Rue Sainte Claire, Dinan

I hope you enjoyed this post today. Please share with your friends and help grow our lovely community.

Stay safe and well,

Amy Gruber, from Tales from Brittany