Market Day in Brittany

I love each and every day that I get to spend in Brittany, but there is one day of the week that is particularly fun – market day. Each town has its own market day, and almost all run year-round, no matter the weather. If you are traveling to France, be sure to find out when market day is in the town you will be staying in and plan an hour just to walk about. This is, after all, where all of the locals go and buy their produce for the week. Sample the local cuisine and interact a bit with the merchants. You won’t regret it. For now, I’ll take you along with me as I visit the market in Dinan on a bright, Thursday morning. We must bring our basket, purchased some time ago at one of the many stalls …

I make the trek up to the centre-ville, where the market has been held for a few centuries now, and I’m immediately engulfed in a variety of smells – everything from fresh flowers and bread to roasted chicken and galettes-saucisses. The sheer variety of products is amazing, from produce to pantalons, socks to soap. Those with a little sweet tooth buy crêpes topped with butter and sugar or a little salted caramel.

Being so close to the sea, I see an abundance of fresh, live seafood, displayed in tubs, scurrying about trying to find the nearest exit.

Market day is equal parts socializing and shopping. As I look around, I imagine being in the same location, but centuries before, the merchants having just come back from foreign lands or the sea, bringing their goods via boat or carriage. Just as it was then, farmers sell only the freshest of produce, and the locals all stand in line to buy ingredients for the week’s meals. I see the pride on the faces of the vendors as they hand over their perfectly ripe tomatoes and lettuce, squash and strawberries.  

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As it was then, gathering at the town market is not only a time for shopping, but also a time for socializing with friends and neighbors. I’m away from the area for months at a time, so I spend a few minutes making introductions to new vendors and chatting with familiar ones, catching up on what’s transpired during my time away.

I make my way around the aisles, searching for a few booths that I visit without fail. Of course, there are the “necessities” to buy – fresh produce and bread – but there are also the “I’m back in Brittany so I have to get these” items. There is a lovely older woman who sells freshly baked Breton bread and pastries, for example. These aren’t the super sweet kind of pastries, but rather like the biscuits our grandmas used to make. They’re dense and delicious and surely baked with both love and care. She told me once that she gets up before 4 a.m. to bake the day’s biscuits.

After hearing that, I have to buy several sablés breton each time to show my gratitude.

And then there’s the gentleman who I will refer to here as “the Olive Guy”. His big smile radiates his pride and passion for offering the most delicious olives known to man. He has a dozen kinds of olives. Talk about a sensory experience! Olives infused with lemon, olives stuffed with fresh garlic, olives doused with herbes de Provence… my mouth is watering just thinking about it. A word of warning, though, it’s not possible to only eat one or two at a sitting. You may find, that like me, you eat about a week’s worth in an afternoon. I consume more olives during my stay in Brittany than in a whole year at home. And his tempenade…. Oh my! Truly, he is a master of all that is olive.

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I’ve purchased a week’s worth of vegetables and fruits, bread, cheese, and olives, and I see a table of interesting looking boissons. They are digestifs, I’m told, after dinner drinks believed to help with digestion. I’m not sure if they do, but I’m willing to try anything infused with elderflower or lavender.

I come upon a woman selling the most beautiful handmade soaps. She has easily three dozen varieties, all the colors, textures and scents that one could imagine, cut into perfect rectangular prisms and hand-stamped. Some are for specific purposes, such as oatmeal or tree tea to aid with skin issues, some crafted solely for the sensorial experience, such as lavender and rose. I can see and feel bits of lavender and I’m instantly transported into a spa. What a wonderful job that must be, crafting soaps! She tells me that people come back time and time again to purchase these rectangular prisms of goodness directly from her. I can see why and purchase a few to take back with me. That way, I can remember the sights and smells of this market when I’m a few thousand miles away. 

I turn the corner and see the vendor selling traditional Breton clothing. I see many a marinière, the famous long-sleeved horizontal striped shirt, once worn solely by seamen but all the rage now with people of all ages.

Each town has its own market day, so that people always have access to fresh, seasonal, and local food. Most markets are open year-round, but consult the local travel and tourism office prior to arrival. I’ve also included links below that list additional information on market days in Brittany, by day and department. While times are not always listed, I find that, generally speaking, they run from about 8:30 a.m. to 1:00 p.m. Best to get there early, and don’t forget your basket!

Vocabulary mentioned in the blog:

Boissons = drinks

Centre-ville = town center

Digestif = an after-dinner drink to aid with digestion. Note: these often contain alcohol.

A galette saucisse is found primarily in Dinan and is a sausage wrapped in a gallette. Generally, people enjoy their galette saucisse with a bit of mustard and a “boule” (small bowl/cup) of cider.

Panier = basket

Pantalons = pants

Sablés Breton = salted butter biscuits

Additional information about markets in Brittany:

5 Markets in Brittany to Stroll Around: https://www.brittanytourism.com/matching-what-i-want/ideas/five-markets-in-brittany-to-stroll-around/

Markets listed by day of the week: https://www.angloinfo.com/how-to/france/brittany/lifestyle/shopping/markets

Market days in Brittany: https://www.southernbrittanycottages.com/visiting-brittany/markets

Market days in France: https://www.completefrance.com/travel/market-days

Words and phrases for shopping in France: https://www.thoughtco.com/french-stores-and-shopping-1371386

Food: https://www.lawlessfrench.com/vocabulary/food/ Numbers and counting: https://www.lawlessfrench.com/vocabulary/numbers-and-counting/

Thank you for reading. Please leave a comment and let me know what you thought of this article.

Be well,

Amy, from Tales from Brittany