How to Spend a Day in Roscoff, Brittany, France

Ah, Roscoff! A charming gem tucked away on the coast of Brittany, France. From the moment my friends and I set foot in this little town, we felt like we had wandered into a seaside fairytale. With its quaint streets, charming shops, and salty breeze, Roscoff is the perfect place to let time slip away.

I feel like I am always learning something new here in France, whether that be a new French phrase, custom, or, in this case, a new historical fact. The history of onions in Roscoff is deeply intertwined with the town’s identity and economy. The unique pink onions, known for their mild flavor and long shelf life, were first cultivated in the 17th century. By the 19th century, enterprising farmers known as “Johnnies” began exporting them across the English Channel. Each summer, these onion sellers would travel by bicycle to England, carrying their goods in braided strings. The Roscoff onion quickly became a staple in British households, earning a reputation for its exceptional quality. Today, the legacy of the “Onion Johnnies” is celebrated in Roscoff, where the tradition and pride in their famous onions continue to thrive.

We saw evidence of these beloved onions all about town. I highly recommend visiting this shop to buy onions and other little treasures.

Roscoff’s coastline is a picturesque blend of sandy beaches and a bustling port, offering a perfect mix of relaxation and activity. The town’s beaches, like Plage de Roch’Roum, are serene spots where the soft sand meets the clear, cool waters of the English Channel. The gentle waves and tranquil atmosphere make them ideal for a peaceful day by the sea.

Just a short walk away, the port of Roscoff hums with life, as fishing boats bob alongside yachts and ferries. The port serves as a gateway to adventure, with ferries regularly departing for the nearby Île de Batz and even as far as Plymouth, England. Watching the ferries come and go, you can’t help but feel the town’s maritime spirit, rooted in centuries of seafaring tradition.

We arrived in Roscoff at low-tide, and while the scene is not your typical one of boats resting in the water with delicate waves lapping against their sides, I often find low tide to be interesting and and lovely in its own right. Do you agree?

We did a fair amount of shopping in town, then drove a few kilometers up the coast and stumbled upon the white sandy beaches that were made for strolling barefoot …

If time allows, here are five delightful things to do in this enchanting corner of the world:

First, you must visit the Jardin Exotique et Botanique de Roscoff. This botanical garden feels like a secret garden, bursting with vibrant plants from around the globe. The air smells of flowers and salt, and the views over the Baie de Morlaix are breathtaking.

Next, wander over to the Chapelle Sainte-Barbe. Perched on a hill, this tiny chapel offers panoramic views of the town and the sea. It’s a perfect spot to breathe deeply and enjoy the peace that seems to flow from the ocean itself.

No trip to Roscoff would be complete without sampling some freshly caught seafood. The local restaurants serve up dishes that taste like the ocean, with buttery sauces and the freshest shellfish you can imagine. Each bite is a love letter to the sea.

For a bit of history, stroll over to the Maison des Johnnies et de l’Oignon de Roscoff, a quirky museum dedicated to the famous Roscoff onions and the “Johnnies” who sold them in England.

Lastly, take a ferry to the Île de Batz. The island is just a short ride away, and I hear it’s like stepping into another world, with wild landscapes and hidden coves. That is definitely on our “must do” list for our next visit.

Roscoff, like every proper Breton town and city, has many wonderful creperies and restaurants offering fresh, mouth-watering seafood. I recommend having a good walkabout, looking at the different menus posted outside, and deciding what tickles your fancy.

My final thoughts – Roscoff is a place to savor, one delightful discovery at a time. We thoroughly enjoyed our time here and are already making plans to return in the off-season.

How to Get to Roscoff

Getting to Roscoff from Rennes is a scenic and straightforward journey, whether you choose to travel by car or train.

By car, the trip takes about two and a half hours, following the N12 highway westward through the picturesque Breton countryside. The route is well-marked and offers beautiful views of rolling hills and quaint villages along the way.

Alternatively, if you prefer the convenience of rail travel, you can catch a direct train from Rennes to Morlaix, a journey of around two hours. From Morlaix, a connecting train or a short 30-minute drive will take you directly to Roscoff. Both options offer a delightful way to explore the heart of Brittany before arriving at the charming coastal town of Roscoff.

Do you think you will visit Roscoff one day?

Have a wonderful day and week, everyone.

Best,

Amy, from Tales from Brittany