A Day in Dinan, Bretagne, France
Whenever I mention Dinan to people who have been there, they get this dreamy look in their eyes and …… I know. I know exactly what they’re thinking and feeling. This charming, medieval town has it all: half-timbered buildings, cobbled streets, almost 2 miles of ramparts, and even a castle. Dinan has the honor being classified as a Ville d’Art et d’Histoire, or Town of Art and History, so named because of its historic monuments, and is home to dozens of artists, sculptors, and merchants.
Dinan is located in the northwestern part of France, in the Cotes d’armor department of Bretagne (Brittany). The walls surrounding the historic center date back to the 11th century, and have survived attacks from the Engligh in the 14th and 15th centuries and bombings during World War II, making Dinan one of the best-preserved towns in the region. Known for its half-timbered houses, lively port, warm people, and delicious food, it is a must-see for travelers.
The Place des Merciers is beloved for its architecture and is full of quaint shops selling regionally made products ranging from sea salt and rillette to pottery and traditional clothing.
In Dinan centre lies the Chateau de Dinan, Tour l’horlage, St Sauveur Basilica, and much more. This is not a hustling, bustling city, but rather a charming town where you can spend hours just walking about and marveling at the beauty you find at every corner.
Brave souls can climb the steep steps of the Tour de l’Horloge for spectacular views of the town.
The Basilique St. Sauveur is an extraordinary structure, a mélange of Gothic and Romanesque architecture. The Jardin Anglais, located behind the basilica, offers a variety of plants and trees and a view of the Port de Dinan from the ramparts.
Before the viaduct was built in 1852, merchants took the long and steep road up from the port de Dinan to the town center. I often imagine them walking up to the town with their goods, after having been gone several months to other towns along the coast, sharing wild tales and new products with the townsfolk.
It’s easy to spend a good part of an hour walking along the ramparts – about 3 km in all – taking in the amazing views of the town and of the river Rance below.
I recommend spending the morning or afternoon wandering about the historic town center, visiting the castle and galleries, then meandering down to the port via Rue du Jerzual (which turns into Rue du Petit Fort) for some lunch or dinner.
This is one of the most charming and photographed streets in Dinan, and you can easily see why.
Exercise caution, however, as the road is steep and the cobbled streets uneven. Best to wear comfortable shoes with good traction.
If the trek doesn’t interest you, you can take advantage of the free bus (Dinamo) that runs from town center to the port and surrounding areas. There is also a little people mover “train” that runs from the port through the town and takes about 40 minutes. I prefer to watch my step, take it slow, and head down this magnificent road to the port. The windy Rue du Jerzual turns into Rue du Petit Fort and here you will see some of the most beautiful old merchant houses, many now turned into art galleries.
You can spend a good number of hours at the Port de Dinan, taking a long and leisurely meal at one of the several restaurants, then work off your wine and crepe walking along the river.
***Keep following my Tales from Brittany blog and Facebook page for more information, events, and travel services. I would love to show you around this incredible town!***
Things to Know:
While Dinan has only about 11,000 inhabitants, over half a million people visit this charming town every year. I’ve been in Dinan during each of the four seasons and can say that the majority of tourists come between May and August, July and August being the peak times, with Christmas time close behind. If possible, schedule a trip during the months of April, May, June, or September.
Market Day is Thursday, from 8:30 to about 1:00 in the town center. Please see my previous blog post on Market Day in Dinan here https://talesfrombrittany.com/market-day-in-brittany/
Dinamo bus information http://www.dinan-agglomeration.fr/Actualites/DINAMO-generateur-de-mobilites-!
Getting there:
By car: From Paris, Dinan is approximately 3 hours and 45 minutes via route A11
By train: From Paris Montparnasse via Rennes or Lamballe (note: this section will be updated once confinement is over)
For additional information about traveling to Brittany, please see my previous post on traveling to Brittany https://talesfrombrittany.com/traveling-to-brittany/
Things to do:
(note: this will be updated with hours of operation once confinement is over and events/festivals have been rescheduled)
Chateau de Dinan
Tour l’horloge
Expositions
Fetes/events
Galleries (I have one in particular to visit, stay tuned for an interview with the artiste)
Ramparts
Market day
My favorite Places to Eat
(This section will be updated w/hours of service once confinement is over)
D’icidela 14 Rue des Rosiers (vegan options available, menu changes daily, locally sourced ingredients, beautiful presentation)
Creperie Art Bilig 8 Rue Sainte Claire, Dinan
Le Passe Simple (Creperie, at the port) 3 Rue du Quai, 22100 Dinan, France
Bords de Rance (Creperie) Just across the river from the Port de Dinan, in Lanvallay) 18 Quai du Tallard, 22100 Lanvallay, France
La Lumachelle 80 Rue du Petit Fort (traditional cuisine)
Places to Stay
(note: this will be updated once confinement is over)
Hotel Arvor https://www.hotelarvordinan.com/fr/
Gites in Dinan https://www.gitesindinan.com/ apartments on the beautiful Rue du Petit Fort
La Maison Pavie https://www.lamaisonpavie.com/, The home that houses this bed and breakfast was built in the 15th century and overlooks the Place St. Sauveur. While I have not stayed there myself, I have heard wonderful things about this special place to rest your head.
Auberge de jeunesse. Tucked away in a wooded area with a winding road. Perfect for those wanting tranquility
You can also stay in nearby Lehon at Quai de Val. See my post about Lehon here https://talesfrombrittany.com/things-to-see-and-do-in-lehon-bretagne-france/
Merci
Thank you for reading my blog. I do hope that you enjoy these virtual tours of Brittany. Out of all the blog posts you’ve read, which town catches your eye most? Which is #1 on your Bucket List? Do tell me in the comments below.
Take good care,
Amy, from Tales from Brittany
4 Comments
Barbara J Gruber
nice article
Amy G.
Thank you! I’m glad you liked it!
Rob Bowers
Wonderful article! Thanks for the photos and the suggested places to visit, dine and stay!
Amy G.
You’re very welcome! I’m glad that you enjoyed it. I hope that you get to try those restaurants at the port soon!