A Coastal Drive in Brittany

The days are growing longer, reminding us that spring is just around the corner. Spring is my favorite season, as it is always full of the promise of new life. This year, I think that rings even more true. With some encouraging news about vaccines, we can all breathe a collective sigh of relief, knowing that we may see some sense of normality yet this year. Those of us with a serious case of wanderlust are beginning to imagine – and dare I say plan – for the day that starts with an early check-in at the airport, and ends with our feet touching the soil of a foreign land.

As you have found your way onto my blog, it will come as no surprise that my plans revolve around getting back to my beloved Brittany. The thought of seeing my friends again makes my heart leap with joy. After plenty of catch-up time, the next thing I want to do is drive to the sea. To feel the salty air on my skin and hear the sound of waves hitting the shore and seagulls flying overhead fills me with great happiness. And so today I am imagining a road trip along Brittany’s majestic coast, revisiting a few of my favorite beaches, ports, and seaside towns. If you would like to join me, continue reading.

We will start our journey from the lovely city of Rennes, as that is where most people will be coming in from Paris. Rennes is full of cultural activities and architectural delights, and well worth a day’s visit. This could be a good home base, if one wants to explore more of this lovely region.

Renting a car in Rennes is fairly quick and easy. One tip, especially if you are not comfortable driving a manual car, is to reserve well in advance. Be sure to specifically ask for an automatic if you are gear shift challenged like myself. When you arrive at the train station in Rennes, go to the car rental area on the ground floor. We have used Europcar on several occasions with good results. This is my plan today, and after getting my keys and finding the car in the garage across the way, I’m off.

Before I left, I did manage to get a coffee to go and something to nibble on. I think a little chocolate helps you concentrate. Do you agree?

Note: For more information about Rennes, see my blog post here. https://talesfrombrittany.com/an-afternoon-in-rennes/ For additional information about driving in France, including tips, rules, toll roads, etc., please visit https://talesfrombrittany.com/going-further-afield-driving-in-france/

When renting a car, I always opt for the GPS option. The roads are well-maintained and well-marked in Brittany, but it can get a little confusing and I want to make the most of the time we have for our road trip. Before heading out, I peek at the map to have a general idea as to location and distance between towns. To begin, we take the D137 directly from Rennes to Dinard.

Dinard is one of my very favorite towns in Brittany, especially in the spring and summer. The beaches are stunningly beautiful, the silky white sand set against the strikingly clear turquoise water is breathtaking. The blue and white tents pitched in clean lines across the beach remind us of days gone by.

Truth be told, I could easily spend a full day or two just taking advantage of the natural surroundings and walkways here. Yes, this is truly a magnificent area, but it is time to get on to the next stop in our coastal road trip.

A winding D786 leads to Saint Lunaire and the Pointe du Decolle.

I had the pleasure of visiting Saint Lunaire with my friend Isabelle, where we spent some time along the shore before heading into the crêperie for a wonderful lunch followed by a very large and most declicious caramel ice cream.

Ah yes, this is just what we need today – a reminder of life’s simple pleasures.

After savoring this moment, we head on … From there it is a short drive to St. Briac sur mer on the D786 …

There is something incredibly peaceful about this scene, when the tide is out and the boats are set in sand. It is as though everything is frozen in time, quietly reminding us to be still, take a breath, and just “be”.

I also like the fact that I can easily find a whole treasure trove of seashells.

Driving into the little town of St Briac sur mer is a must, and worth at least an hour of meandering about. I just love the old stone homes with their classic Brittany blue shutters and the narrow, winding streets make heart swoon every time my feet hit the cobbled stones.

St Briac sur mer is enchanting, like summer in town form.

From St Briac sur mer, we travel to Binic and then to Paimpol on the N176 and N12.

What isn’t to love about Binic? Over the course of several hundred years, Binic grew from a small village to a prominent fishing port. Hiker friends, you could pick up the GR34 trail and carry on through much of this incredible coastline. As for me, I will take a long walk along the beach, head out to the pier, then stop into one of the several cafes that rest along the water.

Just a few more photos, I tell myself …. then promptly take about 30 more.

The day is almost gone, and it’s time to head to our last stop, Paimpol.

For additional information on what to see and do in Binic: https://www.brittanytourism.com/destinations/the-10-destinations/saint-brieuc-bay-paimpol-les-caps/binic-etables-sur-mer/

“Bearing the pretty nickname ‘the beauty spot of the Côtes d’Armor’, Binic marks the entry point to the Goëlo Coast. The town’s port, quays and fine sandy beaches are all linked by the GR34 coastal hiking trail that makes its way along the picturesque, jagged shoreline, meandering through the history of deep-sea fishing and the pleasures of a seaside resort.” from Brittany Tourism

Paimpol is known for its stunning beaches and picturesque port. The port is so delightful, in fact, that it is often referred to as the “Honfleur of Bretagne”.

When we visited Paimpol in 2019, we ate at Le Terre Neuvas, a little restaurant with a splendid view of the harbor. As it was so good the last time, I think we should venture in again. Has all of this walking about made you hungry too? Yes? Then come along and take a seat.

I debate whether I should try something new, but in the end I go for the fish and chips. They are just as fresh and delicious as they were the first time.

My belly is very full and it’s time to take a stroll about the town.

Paimpol is an ecclectic mixture of old stone buildings, with some shops boasting fresh, new facades. There are plenty of tourist-centered magasins where one can find a perfect souvenir to remember our trip. Today, I am just window shopping, but it is always fun to see the variety of items, from pottery Breton stripe shirts, water-resistant coats to brightly colored calendars.

People’s love of the sea can be found everywhere here in Brittany. This lovely sculpture in the town center is a pleasant surprise.

Paimpol is a delight. There are many things to see and do, with a little something for everyone. While I have not visited it yet, I have heard that a “must see” is the Abbaye de Beauport, constructed in the 13^th century. Until I have some of my own, you can find images and a brief history here (in French) https://abbayebeauport.com/ and here (in English) https://abbayebeauport.com/en.html. From what I’ve seen, it is hauntingly beautiful. It has been lovingly restored and events are held throughout the year here, such as Les Escales de Nuit, a series of performances that are held at twilight over the course of several days. The events this year are focused on dance and acrobatics, and I can’t think of anything cooler than watching people perform here. More information can be found here: https://abbayebeauport.com/en/news/article/les-escales-de-nuit.html.

For additional information on things to see and do in Paimpol, please see my blog post here: https://talesfrombrittany.com/a-day-in-paimpol-bretagne/

If you are planning a trip to Brittany, I do hope you found this post helpful. I plan to assist people with their travel planning in the near future, so please let me know if I can be of further service.

If you are a virtual traveler, I hope that you had fun spending the day with me.

I love to hear your feedback, so please do comment below and let me know your thoughts.

Stay safe and well,

Amy, from Tales from Brittany