The Magical Forest of Huelgoat

Everyone has a special place that speaks to them. For some, it is a sandy beach. For others, it’s the hustle and bustle of a big city. For me, it’s the peace and tranquility of a forest. I love the smell of the moss and earth. I love listening to the sweet whisper of the trees. I love the perfect mix of stillness and the constant movement of wildlife. There’s always something to discover in a forest. Sometimes, it’s a little flower peeking out from between the rocks, or an interesting looking mushroom. Occasionally, you can spot an animal’s den made from fallen branches, sticks, and dried leaves.  There’s no shortage of magic in most forests, but as I found out last year, some have a little more magic than others….

One of the many reasons I love Brittany is the weather. Some may scratch their heads at this statement, as they’ve heard stories of how rainy and chilly it is in Brittany. Not true, I say! Brittany lies in a temperate climate, and therefore temperatures usually range between 40 to 70 degrees F. When I’m in Brittany, I can go out for a hike in January or June and get my fill of fresh air and green foliage. This may not seem like a very big deal to most people, but when you’ve grown up in a place that resembles Alaska from November to April, it is pretty special to be able to take a long stroll in January. With the proper shoes and some waterproof outerwear, I can trek through the woods 12 months a year for as long as my heart desires.

Last year, my dear friends took me to Huelgoat, a little village with a magical forest, located in the Finistere department of Brittany. Finistere means “end of the Earth” and Huelgoat means “high wood” or “the wood from above” in Breton. Even the names got me excited, especially since I hadn’t seen much of that area of Brittany. It became even more intriguing after my friends mentioned that this area is a land full of legends, some of which mention a certain King Arthur.

I had to find out more. I stumbled upon this website:   http://www.finisterebrittany.com/gigantic-boulders-huelgoat-forest and couldn’t wait to see the Devil’s Cave, Fairy Pond, and Boars’ Pool mentioned, all located in the forest that I would see with my friends. This and other sites described massive boulders scattered throughout the forest, deposited during the Ice Age. Or were they? According to the link above, the legend of Huelgoat forest offers another explanation:

Legend has it that Gargantua stopped at Huelgoat, struck by hunger, and asked the locals for something to eat. They only offered him boiled buckwheat broth that barely eased his hunger. Furious, he swore revenge and went elsewhere. Once he reached the richer lands of Léon, he satisfied his appetite then he took some of the round boulders from the sea and hurled them towards Huelgoat. They fell all along the river and throughout the Forest, creating the spectacle we see today….

The quaint little town of Huelgoat was an easy 2-hour drive from Rennes. When we arrived, I first noticed the peaceful lake and lovely stone bridge. Across the bridge was a map of the town, and even that looked like it was fresh out of a storybook.

We stopped for lunch at a lovely creperie, Creperie la Grotte, that overlooked the entrance to the forest. We were very pleased with the friendly service, delicious food, and the view overlooking the river.

With bellies full, we were off to begin our trek. Upon entering the forest, we were immediately struck by the incredible rock formations, the ways in which water had carved the boulders over time. Some even resembled bones and skulls. It is no surprise that, over the centuries, these massive rocks and quiet steams would inspire tales of giants and magicians, fairies and nymphs.

A few minutes into our walk, we heard the faint sound of harp music. If the forest hadn’t felt magical before that, it certainly did then. The harpist asked not to be photographed or videotaped, but suffice it to say it was one of the most beautiful pieces of music I had ever heard. Enchanting is the only word I can use to describe it.  Like us, others were moved by his craft, and chose to stop and listen, some standing in place, mesmerized, others sitting atop the boulders or on a log by the stream, being incredibly thankful to be in the forest at that moment in time.

Winding paths took us deeper into the forest, where I lost count how many shades of green lie in a single area. If I lived closer to Huelgoat, I feel sure that I would come here every day.

Several fellow travelers were stopped near a stream, listening to a storyteller recount one of the many legends that have sprung from this forest. Like the harpist, it wasn’t prudent to photograph her (or interrupt her to ask) but I do hope that she is here if you find your way here one day.

And after a good long walk through the wood, it was time to make our way back to the entrance of the forest.

If you are wondering what the Devil’s Cave was like, it was truly otherworldly …

First, one must climb down some very sketchy “stairs”. We climbed single file, as they are quite narrow. This did not leave room for photos, sadly. It is certainly worth a look about, but take great care if you do venture down.

Brittany truly is a land of legends. In my opinion, it is the best of all worlds. In one region alone, you will find castles, sandy beaches, large cities and charming villages. There is so much to see and do, and something to suit everyone’s tastes. But every now and then, it’s important to take some time away from the world and immerse yourself in nature. For me, there’s nothing more magical than that.

General information:

Address: 892 Rue de la Roche Tremblante, 29690 Huelgoat, France

Website: https://www.tourismebretagne.com/destinations/les-10-destinations/coeur-de-bretagne-kalon-breizh/la-foret-de-huelgoat/

Tourist office: https://www.france-voyage.com/cities-towns/huelgoat-8964/tourist-office-huelgoat-6065.htm

Note: there is a parking area by the lake where you can park your car and stroll about the town before or after your trek through the forest.

Things to know before you go:

Signs indicate to exercise caution and the area may not be suitable for young children or those with limited mobility. While the path through the forest is relatively clear, the areas around the rock formations are, as you can imagine, uneven, and getting through to the forest paths can be tricky. The area around the boulders can be slick, especially when wet. If you choose to explore this beautiful area, make sure you are wearing shoes with good traction. Watch your step, and enjoy!

Restaurants

Creperie la Grotte

25 rue des Cendres (3,741.25 mi)
Huelgoat 29690

Open Tuesday through Friday 7 a.m. to 8:30 p.m., Saturday from 9 a.m. to 8:30 p.m. and Sunday 9 a.m. to 7 p.m. Closed Sunday

Additional information and photos here:  https://www.facebook.com/Cr%C3%AAperie-Bar-La-Grotte-1564495043795889/

Creperie les Myrtilles

26 Place Aristide Briand, 29690 Huelgoat, France

Open 12 – 2 p.m. Wednesday through Friday, Saturday 12 – 2 p.m. and 7 – 8:45 p.m., Sunday 12 – 2:00 p.m. Closed Monday and Tuesday.