A Visit to Saint Suliac, Bretagne, France

One of the many things I love about France is that a picturesque village is never more than a few kilometers away. In fact, France is home to over 150 official beautiful villages (les plus beaux villages de France). Saint Suliac, a small fishing town in Brittany’s Ille–et–Vilaine department, has held this title since 1999. Under a thousand people call it home but many come to take in its narrow winding streets lined with centuries old stone houses.

Saint Suliac is an easy 45-minute drive north from Rennes. It is only a few kilometers from St Malo and the two can be easily combined to make a lovely day trip. Another option is to spend the morning hiking the coastal path that winds around the River Rance then take a stroll about the town. I recently did the latter and it was a wonderful way to spend a Saturday. A third option is to combine all of the above and have a day filled with adventure and a nice walkabout, sprinkled with a bit of history and culture. A post on St Malo is coming soon. Today, I will take you with me to this darling village.

As my regular readers are aware, my favorite thing to do when visiting a place such as this is to simply wander and see what hidden treasures lie waiting …

Whether that be coming across a home built in the late 1600’s …

… or a furry friend warming himself in the mid-day sun. The turquoise blue gate and pink hydrangeas set against the granite stones only make the scene more charming.

A little ruette soon takes my breath away. Sunbeams dance across the rooftops onto the green foliage and multi-hued stone walls. There is something about the light in Brittany that makes these villages seem almost enchanted, otherworldly.

The River Rance winds its way up to the English Channel at St Malo and Dinard. The towns along the river have homes dating from about the 15th century. It is incredible to think that people have been walking along these same little streets for that many years. Of course, people settled in this area long before that, some of their traditions still being carried on today. Stories once heard at the feet of grandparents still being told to children at bedtime.

It’s important to walk slowly and deliberately, for there are subtle reminders everywhere that the water holds significant importance here …

These objects are the first things that people see when entering their homes, after all, and they show that we must never forget one’s roots, one’s history.

After spending a good amount of time near the water, I can see why so many never choose to leave their beloved Brittany.

Yes, this is a town made for a good, leisurely walk. Everything seems to move at a slower pace here. With every twist and turn, I took in the cobbled streets, bright shutters and gates, the various colors of hydrangeas, the slate roofs … everything I love about the villages in Brittany.

Also relatively common in Brittany is to see statues of the Virgin Mary carefully nestled into stone walls and I feel her presence here. According to France this Way:

Throughout Saint-Suliac you willl notice statues in the walls of the house. Many of these are 19th century statues of the Virgin, added to protect the villagers from diseases such as cholera, and others are sculptures from an ancient monastery a short distance from the village. 

(Additional information can be found here: https://www.francethisway.com/places/saint-suliac.php)

What to see in Saint Suliac:

Eglise de Saint-Suliac

Spend some time in this 13th century church – one of the oldest in Brittany – and appreciate the stained glass windows, superb sculptures, lovely artwork, and a beautiful old boat encased in glass near the alter of the church.

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In addition to Saint Suliac being a charming village to explore, it is a prime location for hiking. The nearby trail winds along the river Rance and offers exceptional views of the river and town. I recently made this approximately 2-hour randonnee then walked through the town. An article will be coming soon in MyFrenchLife magazine about that day, but I am giving you all a sneak peek by including some photos below.

Saint Malo tourism describes this area perfectly:

Today, far from the sea, many coastal hiking trails allow you to discover the natural heritage with magnificent views from the rocky points to the discovery of the Beauchet mill, an old tide mill, the old salt marshes of Guettes or the menhir known as “Dent de Gargantua”, the only prehistoric vestige… so many local treasures that can be admired in a remarkably preserved site. https://www.saint-malo-tourisme.com/decouvrir/un-territoire-unique/la-cote/saint-suliac

I enjoyed this hike so much. This particular trail has some steep climbs up high rocky bluffs, and afforded us some truly amazing views of the estuary below. I have grown to love this river and appreciated the opportunity to see it from this vantage point.

This particular location is very special to the people of this village. According to the below site, this is where the townswomen would congregate and wait for the fishing boats to return. I imagine these women here, over the many centuries, waiting for their loved ones. It is a beautiful image, isn’t it? And yet, with the river being both calm and turbulent, often changing quickly from one to the other, I imagine that the women held their breath from the time their husbands left to the moment they cast their eyes upon their boats coming back to shore.

(See the following for additional information https://www.les-plus-beaux-villages-de-france.org/fr/nos-villages/saint-suliac/ )

A good, long hike deserves to be rewarded with a delicious meal. I have it on good authority that the best place to eat is the Creperie Au Galichon. While my friend and I did not have time for lunch, I look forward to heading back there soon for another walk about the town and a hearty galette followed by a sweet crepe.

Saint Suliac General Information:

https://www.brittanytourism.com/destinations/the-10-destinations/cap-frehel-saint-malo-mont-saint-michel-bay/saint-suliac-and-the-rance/

and

http://www.saint-suliac.fr

Things to do, where to stay in Saint Suliac:

https://www.brittany-tourism.com/discover-ille-et-vilaine/the-loveliest-places/saint-suliac/

How to get there:

From Rennes, take D137. The journey should take about 45 minutes.

Things to do in the Ille-et-Vilaine department:

https://www.brittany-tourism.com

Where to Dejeuner:

Creperie Au Galichon https://au-galichon.eatbu.com/?lang=en

Information regarding the randonnee (hike) can be found here:

https://www.visorando.com/randonnee-saint-suliac-pointe-nord/

Information on 20 of the most beautiful villages in France by region https://www.francethisway.com/most-beautiful-villages.php

General information about neighboring St Malo:

https://www.brittanytourism.com/destinations/the-10-destinations/cap-frehel-saint-malo-mont-saint-michel-bay/saint-malo/

https://www.saint-malo-tourisme.co.uk

I hope you enjoyed this walk about Saint Suliac. This is not a town full of tourist attractions, but rather just a beautiful place to spend a morning or afternoon. As it is relatively close to Rennes and very close to St Malo, it makes for a lovely add-on for a trip to Brittany. If you plan to visit, will you add Saint Suliac to your itinerary? Please let me know in the comments.

Stay safe and well,

Amy, from Tales from Brittany