Bécherel: A Book Lover’s Dream

There’s something special about holding a book that someone cherished during his or her lifetime. Many years ago, I bought a set of old books at a bouquiniste (stand with used and antique books) in Paris. A 2^nd edition of Les Misérables, in four separate books, pages worn from years of resting in someone’s hands. There were even old letters tucked inside, written to a young girl. From whom, I wondered? An aunt or grandmother, perhaps?  The book itself holds two stories: one of the author, and one of the reader. Some people prefer brand new books, but I prefer just about anything with a story.

Late last summer, my friend and French tutor told me about a neighboring town known throughout the region for its love of books. As luck would have it, there was an event coming up that weekend, a Nuit du Livre (book night), to celebrate the love of reading. It sounded like a lovely way to spend the evening. A night of books, in a medieval French village, with friends? What could be better?

Before heading to Bécherel, I read a bit about the village. Centuries ago, Bécherel was widely known for its hemp and linen. Cloth from this little village was used to create sails for the plethora of ships in the region. Today, Bécherel holds a special place in the hearts of those, like me, who treasure old books.

When we arrived, I found the village as charming as I had pictured it. Perhaps even more so, with the streets lined with booksellers, villagers and tourists tenderly flipping through the pages of cloth-covered books. We spent the good part of an hour visiting an art gallery and some of the shops, then perused a few of the bookstores. While several of the 15 book shops carried exclusively French titles, some had a selection of books in multiple languages.

After a good look about the different bookstores, we came upon a tea house, and spent the next few hours chatting about life, our children, travel plans, and goals, sipping on tea and sharing a beautiful piece of tarte. It was a lovely evening, made even better by the ambiance of the little tea house, full of families and friends enjoying their time together. One of the things I appreciate most about life in France is that time seems to slow down considerably when people get together. There is no rush to get to the next thing, rather the time together is the main event.

Bécherel was given the distinction of Petite Cité de Caractère in 1978. There are only a small number of villages throughout France, about 20 in Brittany, given this title. Petite Cité de Caractère means, “little town of character”, but it is more appropriately, “uniquely picturesque village” or something that cannot quite be translated. To be given this title is quite the honor, and taken seriously by all who live there. Towns awarded this special label are committed to the preservation of their history and culture. The villages that I have visited with this award have indeed all been charming and certainly worth an afternoon or evening stroll. These are not bustling cities, but rather the quaint little villages, with distinctive architecture, and that extra “something” that one often thinks of when picturing rural France. Life isn’t rushed here, and it reminds us of the importance of taking one’s time, exploring the narrow streets and alleys, stopping to marvel at the slant of a roof or the tiny flowers peeking out between the stones of walls built centuries before.

If you are in Brittany, be sure to stop for the afternoon in this little village. I think you’ll find it as enjoyable as we did.

Bécherel Tourisme Office  http://becherel.com/

Open: September to June, from Tuesday to Friday 10 am to 1:00 p.m. and 2:00 to 6:00 p.m.

Open the first Sunday of the month during school breaks from 2:00 to 8:00 p.m.

Open during the months of July and August, Tuesday through Friday, 10 a.m. to 1:00 p.m. and 2:00 to 6:00 p.m. and Saturday and Sunday.

Bookstores

http://www.becherel-autour-du-livre.com/2014/03/les-librairies-en-une-seule-page.html

Getting there

Bécherel is about 35 km from Rennes, about a 40-minute drive. It is most easily accessed by car as there is not a direct train to Becherel. Another option is to take the bus from Rennes or Dinan. The cost is minimal, only about 6 to 13 euros.

Rennes to Becherel https://www.rome2rio.com/map/Rennes/B%C3%A9cherel

Information in French https://www.breizhgo.bzh/accueil

Information in English https://moovitapp.com/index/en/public_transit-line-82-Rennes-1122-10288-423884-0

Complete information with stops https://moovitapp.com/index/48/public-transit-resources/line/v/1122/423884/STAR_Rennes_Villejean_Universit%C3%A9_%3C%3E_Romill%C3%A9_%3C%3E_Langan_%3C%3E_La_Chapelle_Chauss%C3%A9e_%3C%3E_B%C3%A9cherel_%3C%3E_Miniac_sous_B%C3%A9cherel_Miniac_Eglise.pdf

Driving directions from Gare de Rennes (train station) to Becherel (about 40 minutes) https://goo.gl/maps/ANKXysSjvpgwc3uF8

Dining Options

Restaurants http://becherel.com/hebergements-restaurations-restauration/bar

Creperies http://becherel.com/hebergements-restaurations-restauration/creperies

Tea shop and ___ https://un-air-de-famille-tea-house.business.site/?utm_source=gmb&utm_medium=referral

Salon de thé http://becherel.com/hebergements-restaurations-restauration/salon-de-the

Miscellaneous

Further explanation on Petites Cites de Caractere: https://www.petitescitesdecaractere.com/