An Afternoon in Rennes

After a comfortable and relaxed train ride from Paris – only about an hour and a half – we arrive in Rennes, the capital city of la Bretagne.  Rennes is located in the eastern part of Brittany, in the Ille-et-Vilaine department. It has a population of about 700,000 people, and is listed as one of France’s most livable cities. It is not surprising, with its vibrant and eclectic atmosphere, rich history, art museums, several well-known universities, and almost 60 parks. It also offers a wide variety of restaurants to suit just about anyone’s palette.

Rennes is a main hub for travel, which makes it very easy to catch a connecting train to a number of other cities in the region. It is a quick one-hour train ride to St. Malo in the north and Vannes to the south, and a mere 40-minute train to Vitre to the east. Those wanting to explore western Brittany can board a train and be in Quimper or Brest in about 2 and a half hours.

As mentioned in a previous post, the train station has plenty to offer in the way of cuisine if one is making a relatively quick connection. If not, it is worth spending the morning or an afternoon in this charming city. Temperatures are mild all year round, making this an excellent town for strolling about.

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It is about a 20-minute walk from the train station to the Place des Lices. It’s where we can still find many half-timbered houses, spared from a fire in the early 1700’s that destroyed most of the buildings in this area. When we want to take a break, we can sit at a café with outdoor seating, perfect for relaxing and people watching.

This vibrant city hosts 90 historic monuments and a variety of cultural activities, from museums to administrative buildings, markets to superb gardens. It is a relatively easy city to navigate, especially since I’ve remembered to print a map in advance.

While it is easy to feel like we need to see everything we can during our time here, we’ve learned that by doing so leaves us feeling tired rather than inspired. Therefore, we choose a few sights to see and spend the rest of the time wandering about, somewhat aimlessly, taking in the architecture that is so very different than home. We notice the slant of the roofs, the magnificent beams and ornate wooden carvings in the half-timbered houses, and their vibrant, colorful exterior.

The next time we come to Rennes, we’ll make sure it’s on a Saturday, as that is the city’s market day. Rennes has the second largest market in France, the Marché des Lices. We will stock up on fresh fruit and vegetables, jams, honeys, bread, seafood, and more! We can easily buy food for a week, and maybe even a warm crêpe to eat while visiting a few of the over 300 vendors. (Market is open every Saturday from 7:30 am to 1:30 pm.)

Museum lovers like us will appreciate the Musée des Beaux-Arts for its variety, from Egyptian artifacts to contemporary art, and great works by masters such as Picasso and De Le Tour. Further information here: https://mba.rennes.fr/  in English here: https://travelguide.michelin.com/europe/france/brittany/ille-et-vilaine/rennes/musee-des-beaux-arts-de-rennes  and information on accessibility here: https://mba.rennes.fr/fr/visiteurs/en-situation-de-handicap/ 

Hours: Tuesday to Friday 10am-5pm, weekends 10am-6pm – closed Mon and Bank Holidays. Price: 6 euros for one individual, free to children under 18. Additional information here: https://mba.rennes.fr/fr/infos-pratiques/horaires-acces-tarifs/

Address: 20 quai Émile-Zola, 35000 Rennes

We are interested in learning more about the history of la Bretagne, so on our list is to visit the Musée de Bretagne. This museum offers decorative arts, photography, costumes, and more.

Hours: Tuesday through Friday from noon to 7 pm and 2 pm to 7 pm on the weekend from September to June. *Free the first Sunday of the month

Address: Les Champs Libres, 10 Cours des Allies, 3500 Rennes Additional information can be found here: https://www.musee-bretagne.fr/

As it is the capital of this region, we stop to see the Palais du Parlement de Bretagne. Construction began on this magnificent building over 400 years ago. It survived a devastating fire in 1994 that thankfully spared its great hall. Visitor information can be found here: https://www.tourisme-rennes.com/en/organize-my-trip/visit-rennes-in-group/adults/visit-of-the-parliament-of-brittany/

After a day of wandering about, eating good food and people watching, we will take some time to relax in the Thabor Gardens. People have been coming to this garden for over 150 years. There is plenty of green space, over 24 acres. It is open year-round but hours vary by season.

Additional information here: https://www.tourisme-rennes.com/fr/organiser-mon-sejour/que-faire-a-rennes/parc-du-thabor/

We like to take the road less traveled whenever possible, as it is there that we find the most joy. Taking a few steps away from the hustle of the city, we find narrow, winding streets and a gentleman who enjoys taking photos as much as I do. We also see a young man making a delivery via a small bike cart. Simple pleasures that we would have missed if we were rushing about from point A to point B. As the saying goes, we always take time to smell the roses. If there is one thing that I’ve learned in my years of travel, it is to move slowly and take it all in, savor all the little things, as those leave the biggest impression.

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Restaurant suggestions in Rennes

Elegant and traditional: Le Carre

Situated in the place des Lices, this elegant hotel offers a variety of dining experiences. Open Tuesday through Saturday, noon to 11:30 p.m. Closed Sunday and Monday.

Address: 34 place des Lices. More information here:

Accueil

Vegetarian: Herbosaurus.

100% vegetarian and organic tearoom and restaurant with homemade desserts, all made with a New Caledonian and Vietnamese flair. Open Tuesday through Saturday. Open noon to 6:30 Tuesday through Thursday and 7 p.m. on Friday and Saturday.

Address: 2 Rue Jules Simon 35000 Rennes  Photos can be found here: https://www.instagram.com/herbosaurusrennes/

Crêperie 

Le Saint Georges. With two eclectic locations in Rennes: Rue du Chapitre, 3500 Rennes and 17 Rue Jules Simon. Open noon to 2:00 pm and 7:00 pm to 10:00 p.m. Tuesday through Thursday and noon to 2:00 and 7:00 to 11:00 on Saturay. Closed Monday and Tuesday.

More information here:

/www.creperie-saintgeorges.com/

Café suggestions

If you love both cats and coffee, try Le Chat Puccino. Dear to my heart is that the cats are up for adoption and looking for furever homes. We have not been, as my husband is allergic to cats, but I have read some wonderful reviews. Adorable photos and videos can be found here: https://www.instagram.com/chatpuccino/ Cat Café review here: https://www.theneighborscat.com/le-chat-puccino Open noon to 7 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday. Closed Sunday and Monday.

Address: 1 Rue des Francs Bourgeois, 3500 Rennes.

For a cozy and casual café, try Mokka Coffee House. Situated in the heart of Rennes. It offers outdoor seating, specialty coffees, with pastries and sandwiches to dine in or take away. Open Monday through Saturday, 8:30 am to 6:30 pm. Instagram photos here: https://www.instagram.com/mokkacoffeehouse/

Address: 14 rue Le Bastard

Miscellaneous:

A walking guide and map: https://www.gpsmycity.com/tours/rennes-introduction-walk-6270.html

Vocabulary:

How to order food and navigate a French menu: https://www.fluentu.com/blog/french/how-to-order-food-in-french/

Video on how to order food: https://youtu.be/vfagYjuyONg