A Day in Paimpol, Bretagne

Paimpol is a lovely coastal town located in the Côtes-d’Armor department of Brittany. During the summer months, tourists flock to Paimpol for its exquisite beaches and charming port. La Plage de la Tossen, for example, is just a quick walk from town and a favorite for those with young children.

Stopping first at the port, I take everthing in: the smells coming from the water, soft sounds of metal clanking, coming from the boats that are tossing a bit in the breeze. From this vantage point, I can imagine well painters standing just here, their easels set up to consider the boats in the foreground and the old buildings behind, taking several long minutes to ponder exactly which colors to mix on their palette that would accurately capture the shades of grey and yellow, purple and blue, found in the clouds above.

I’ve always been fascinated by the idea of a fisherman’s life. Maybe it’s from reading stories such as Hemingway’s Old man and the Sea, and family trips to the East Coast of the United States and Florida. What must it be like to be on the open waters every day, feeling the gentle mist on one’s face in the early morning hours, the sound of the seagulls calling as they circle above, sneaking glances of the fish that lie flapping about in the heavy nets on the deck. Do they think the fish are a little snack for them, perhaps?

I imagine that on some days such a life would be incredibly peaceful, even with the long hours and difficult work. I can also imagine other days, when the wind causes rough waters, the boats swaying back and forth in the rocky waves. How they can stay onboard these little boats is beyond me, but I appreciate thir courage immensely. It’s amazing how we are each born to do something very different than another.

I’m also wondering, do other people think about all this when just looking at a harbor? Such is the mind of someone who dreams of having more time to explore such amazing places, taking photos and maybe writing a page or two.

Dragging myself away from the port, it’s time to take in a bit of the town …

I find flowers spilling out of each fleuriste that I pass. I dream of the day when I am in France full-time and can take one (or three) of these little plants home with me. What a lovely sight it would be to see these on the terrace!

A simple turn of the corner holds this little treasure. I half expect Rapunzel to show her face in the window.

The older streets of the town are charming …

I don’t know what it is about the slate roofs in Brittany, but they stop me in my tracks every time. Their many shades of grey, the way they curve, and the tiny windows found at the top draw me in. By this time, I think you can appreciate how long it takes me to get through a town, even one that is rather small. I can’t help but to be mesmerized by the slate and stones, the old, warn streets, and the flowers cascading down from window boxes.

The town center has its share of surprises, like this set of metal sculptures …

After a good walk through town, it’s time for some lunch. This little restaurant was too pretty to pass up. It did not disappoint, with a delicious meal of fish and chips.

One more stroll around the port then time to head back home …

It was certainly a day well spent, and I look forward to revisiting this lovely spot again.

Things to do and see

There are many things to see and do in Paimpol, with a little something for everyone. The next time I’m in Paimpol I would like to explore the Abbaye de Beauport, constructed in the 13^th century. While I don’t have any personal photos of this magnificent abby (yet) one can find images and a brief history here (in French) https://abbayebeauport.com/ and here (in English) https://abbayebeauport.com/en.html. From what I’ve seen, it is hauntingly beautiful. It has been lovingly restored and events are held throughout the year here, such as Les Escales de Nuit, a series of performances that are held at twilight over the course of several days. The events this year are focused on dance and acrobatics, and I can’t think of anything cooler than watching people perform here. If you happen to be in the area, these performances are scheduled for August 11, 12, 13, 18, 19, and 20. More information can be found here: https://abbayebeauport.com/en/news/article/les-escales-de-nuit.html.

Another outdoor attraction is Les Jardins de Kerdalo, spanning 17 hectares. The following website states that here, one can find ponds, waterfalls, cascades, a grotto, and pavilions http://www.lesjardinsdekerdalo.com/spip.php?article21

Additional information can be found here (in French) http://www.lesjardinsdekerdalo.com/ and here (in English) http://www.lesjardinsdekerdalo.com/spip.php?article20 Groups welcome throughout the year on reservation.

Opening times can be found here: http://www.lesjardinsdekerdalo.com/spip.php?article30

If you enjoy cider, or want to taste the local flavor for the first time, you can head to a cidrerie and take a tour. One such brewery is la cidrerie de Guillou Le Marec. Website http://www.cidre-paimpol.com/

Restaurants

Le Terre Neuvas (highlighted above) located just at the port. http://www.tnpaimpol.fr/

Menus can be found here: http://www.tnpaimpol.fr/menus

Charlotte O Crepes

5 rue de General de Gaulle, 22620, Paimpol

Website https://www.charlotteocrepes.fr/

Getting there

If coming from Rennes train station, by car:

Driving distance from Rennes train station to Lamballe is 1 hour (84.0 km) via N12 or continue another 12 minutes to Saint-Brieuc. Drive another 40 minutes (about 46 km) via D6 and D7 to Paimpol.

Map taken from: http://www.orangesmile.com/travelguide/bretagne-region/high-resolution-maps.htm

Alternatively, one can take the train from Rennes to Guingamp then from Guingamp to Paimpol. Trains typically run from Rennes to Guingamp every 3 hours and from Guingamp to Paimpol about 5 times a day. Remember to look at the SNCF site for train times and current prices. I looked today for a ticket departing next Sunday and returning the following Sunday, the price per person, round trip, second class, was 47 euros 60. Ticket information can be found here: https://en.oui.sncf/en/

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I hope I have inspired you to add Paimpol to your list of places to see if you are traveling to Brittany. Or, if you are a mental traveler, I hope that you were able to take in the sights, sounds, and smells of this little portside town. I visited Paimpol last year and look forward to the day I can go back and take a peek at the Abbey and have a long stroll on the beach.

As always, thank you for taking the time to read this blog. Do comment below with your thoughts and suggestions.

Take good care,

Amy, from Tales from Brittany