12 Day Itinerary: Brittany, Normandy, and Paris

I don’t know about you, but I miss traveling. I miss it like one misses an old friend. I’ve had a sense of wanderlust for decades, and while I am capable of being happy at home, I long for adventure. I miss my friends and my beloved Brittany. I miss hearing French in the streets and in the shops. I even miss the airport, and that’s saying something. To travel is to be pushed out of our comfort zone, to discover new places, and meet new people. There really isn’t anything better, in my opinion. I know this too shall pass, and, like many, I’m dreaming of the day in which travel between countries will be possible once again.

I was asked recently how I would spend two weeks in France if I were visiting for the first time. This little project was just the boost I needed to pull me out of the writer’s fog that I have been experiencing the last few weeks. This 12-day itinerary is for someone looking to spend a few days in Paris, several days in Brittany, and a few days in Normandy. (A full 14-day itinerary would include a trip to the Loire Valley, as it is exceptionally beautiful.)

The itineraries I create for people are based on their personal interests, comfort level with driving, time of year, etc. For today’s purposes, I’ve created something quite general and allows for both sightseeing and “down time”. I am using Dinan/Lehon as a home-base as, let’s face it, I’m quite biased when it comes to Dinan and Lehon. To me, this is the perfect spot to stay for convenience to other locations, cost, and, quite frankly, sheer beauty and charm.

Come along with me as we spend 12 days in la Belle France …

Day One: Arrive at Charles de Gaulle Airport (CDG). Once through border control, take a cab to the hotel for a quick unpacking and shower. I generally arrive at CDG about 7 AM, and get to the hotel about 9:30. Once changed and feeling somewhat refreshed, I head to Kozy Cafe on Avenue Bosquet for delicious brunch and really good coffee.

Today is just about getting acclimated to the new time zone, rest up a bit, and see whatever one can before jet lag really sets in. To stretch my legs after the long flight – and to ensure that I get a good night’s sleep – I like to take a leisurely walk along the Seine to Notre Dame. The map below shows my preferred route, but there are many other ways to get there, depending on one’s preferences.

A walk along the Seine is good for the body and soul …

I then like to continue on past Notre Dame and cross the bridge to Ile St Louis. There are numerous shops and cafes there to keep my mind off the the lack of sleep I experienced on the trip across the pond.

As I stay at Hotel Muguet each time I’m in Paris, I like to grab an early dinner on Rue Cler then come back to the hotel for a good night’s sleep.

Day Two: Musee Rodin and/or Musee D’Orsay, lunch at Les Deux Magots, and a stroll through Luxembourg Gardens

The first stop of the day is Musee Rodin. If someone hasn’t seen the magnificent sculptures inside, I would highly recommend getting tickets to both the museum and the gardens. Otherwise, a visit to the museum gardens before heading to Musee d’Orsay is a wonderful way to start the morning.

From Musee Rodin, it is a pretty easy walk to Musee d’Orsay …

After viewing the masterpieces, head upstairs to the restaurant for un verre or at least to catch a glimpse of Montmatre through this stunning clock.

There are many wonderful restaurants in the area, but I think Les Deux Magots offers a perfect vantage point for taking in the unmistakable charm of this city. http://www.lesdeuxmagots.fr/en/ From there, a walk through Jardin du Luxembourg is a must …

More information about Paris here: https://talesfrombrittany.com/beyond-brittany-souvenirs-de-paris/

Day Three: Train to Rennes, arriving mid-day. Pick up car at train station. If arriving between 12 and 1pm, have lunch in town. If not, take lunch at Prêt a Manger or one of the other little restaurants inside the gare de Rennes then pick up the rental car at Europcar. More information about Rennes here https://talesfrombrittany.com/an-afternoon-in-rennes/

Drive 45 minutes to Dinan. (Staying in town at Hotel Arvor in Dinan’s historic center or in neighboring Lehon at Quai du Val.) Get settled and walk into town/to the port. That evening, grab a drink at the port and relax then head to one of the many restaurants in town.

Day Four: Dinan’s historic center and Lehon.

If staying in Dinan, visit art galleries and shops in centre-ville, then head to the Chateau de Dinan. Tourist information here https://www.dinan-capfrehel.com/culture-patrimoine/chateau-de-dinan/ and general information about Dinan in English here https://www.dinan-capfrehel.com/en/ If staying in nearby Lehon, walk through the sleepy town and then walk or drive to Dinan’s historic center.

After a leisurely lunch in town, make your way down Rue de Jerzual. Note: Proceed with caution, as there is a steep incline and the cobbled stones are uneven. If walking isn’t an option, there is a bus (the Dinanmo) that will take you down to the port. If staying at Quai du Val, walk 25 minutes to the port de Dinan and either walk up Rue du Jerzual or take the bus into town.

Be sure to leave time to stop into the many little shops and galleries on the Rue du Jerzual.

One of my favorite things to do is have a cider and galette at the port and simply take it all in. After a bite to eat, take a 1-hour boat ride from the port to Lehon. Note: this boat does not let you off in Lehon, it is a one-hour round trip boat ride. You can see the Jaman V boat on the left side of the photo below. The boat runs from April to the beginning of October.

The path from the port de Dinan to Lehon is mostly level. It takes about 25 to 30 minutes to get from one town to the other.

For additional information about Dinan, see my post here: https://talesfrombrittany.com/a-day-in-dinan-bretagne-france/

For additional information about Lehon, see my post here: https://talesfrombrittany.com/things-to-see-and-do-in-lehon-bretagne-france/

Day Five: St. Malo. Take a 2.5 hour boatride from the port de Dinan to St. Malo or, you can drive to St. Malo in about 35 minutes. Explore St. Malo, with a lunch in the city centre, then take the train back to Dinan. Dinner at the port.

General information about St Malo here: https://www.brittanytourism.com/destinations/the-10-destinations/cap-frehel-saint-malo-mont-saint-michel-bay/saint-malo/

Day Six: Visit Vitre and Fougeres. These two towns are certainly worth a visit, but they do require a vehicle as it is somewhat challenging to get to Fougeres by bus. We explored both towns in one day, and didn’t feel too rushed. The town of Vitre is very pretty, and deserves a good afternoon or so just for strolling.

For additional information about Vitre and Fougeres, see my previous posts here: https://talesfrombrittany.com/a-visit-to-the-chateau-de-fougeres/ and https://talesfrombrittany.com/an-afternoon-in-vitre/

Day Seven: Mont St. Michel and drive to Honfleur. Before starting the journey, it’s important to check the tide schedule so as not to arrive during high tide. You can find that information here: http://wisuki.com/tide/6154/mont-saint-michel . Mont St. Michel is about a one-hour drive from Dinan. Plan to spend the good part of the afternoon exploring Mont St. Michel and its magnificent abbey. One can either head back to Dinan for the night or continue east to Honfleur.

Mont St. Michel General info https://www.european-traveler.com/france/visiting-le-mont-st-michel-normandy-france/ 

Day Eight: Honfleur, Normandy, France. Honfleur is a 2 1/2 hour drive from Dinan by car and a little over 2 hours from Mont St. Michel.

Check into the hotel (I recommend Hotel l’Ecrin) and head straight to the port. If staying at Hotel l’Ecrin, it’s a lovely and quick walk through town then to the port.

Day Nine: Spend full day in Honfleur. Visit the port, then the galleries and shops in town. Enjoy dinner at the port or in town. Make time for the incredible 15th century l’eglise Sainte Catherine. More information here: https://www.calvados-tourisme.com/offre/eglise-sainte-catherine/

General info on Honfleur:

The Ravishing Little Town of Honfleur Normandy

Hotel http://www.hotel-ecrin-honfleur.com/en/

A post on Honfleur is coming soon!

Day Ten: Breakfast in Honfleur. Drive to Le Havre. Drop car at the train station then head to Paris. Check into hotel then have dinner near the hotel. (Le Petit Cler or le 7eme Vin if staying at the Hotel Muguet).

Day Eleven: Paris. Lunch at Angelina, walk through Jardin de Tuileries towards Louvre.

The Jardin des Tuileries leads directly into the Palais du Louvre. As mentioned in my previous post about Paris, I think the Louvre is well worth a visit, especially if someone has not yet been there. My recommendation, however, is to choose one or two areas to see – and enjoy them thoroughly – rather than trying to see as much as possible in one day.

The perfect way to spend a last evening in Paris is to sit at a cafe for an hour or two and simply watch the world go by. Then head to the Champ de Mars with a little basket of bread, cheese, and wine. Stay until dark and enjoy the beauty of the Eiffel Tower all lit up.

Places to stay in Dinan/Lehon:

Quai du Val https://www.quaiduval.com/ Read all about the owners’ story here https://www.quaiduval.com/en/2068608/dare-to-dream. Note: there are still openings in September!

Hotel Arvor https://www.hotelarvordinan.com/fr/ Note: we stayed at this hotel in 2016, during our first visit to Dinan. We were very happy with the rooms and service. My understanding is that it has recently been remodled. Looks fabulous!

Places to stay in Honfleur:

Hotel l’Ecrin https://www.hotel-ecrin-honfleur.com/fr/

Places to stay in Paris:

Hotel Muguet https://hotelparismuguet.com/

Tips for driving in France:

See my blog post here: https://talesfrombrittany.com/going-further-afield-driving-in-france/

I hope you’ve enjoyed this little tour of France. There are so many things to see and do that it is hard to capture everything here. Please let me know what interests you the most, and the towns that you’d most want to visit.

Stay well, and, as always, thank you for your support.

Amy, from Tales from Brittany